I was super excited for this climb and after Zugspitze and The Vatican I was suppose to go to Balkan to climb but there was a weather window in the alps so I decided to go to Grossglockner instead! It was me and my sister Malin and my assistant William who just started working with me (my job is photography so I have an assistant for that and now he just had to come climb a little bit with me).
I wanted to do the Studlgrat (SW ridge) so I got a hold of a guide last minute for the climb and then we drove the van to a camping near the mountain. I was suppose to take the bus to the parking at Lucknerhaus but the bus never came so I had to call a taxi.
It was a super warm day down at the start of the trail up to Studlhutte were I was suppose to meet my guide at 9pm. So I started the hiking up there at 4pm to have some extra time for photos along the way. It was me and William. My sister stayed at the camping.
Over the year I have become more and more efficient in packing my backpack so to not have any extra clothes I hiked in what I would climb in tomorrow. Way too warm down here tho!
But the views were amazing so I didn´t complain.
And after a while the clouds over the top disappeared so I could see Grossglockner.
The last part up to Studlhutte. It´s a nice hike and it goes pretty fast. I think around 2 hours it took us to get up there. Just in time for some photography and dinner.
Studlhutte! Located at 2801 meters.
It was a spectacular sunset! The hut was fully booked but my guide managed to get me a spot. William did not stay the night, he hiked down and back to the camping again. I could not bring him on the climb since it was going to be technical and guided 1:1.
In the morning I was excited for the climb! First there is just hiking up to a glacier.
Into the clouds. Here we roped up and continued a while on the glacier. It was great to have a local guide this day since weather was like this the rest of the climb. No good visibility at all.
My guide Peter was awesome! I can really recommend him if you are climbing Grossglockner. He is a local and also one of the best guides I have ever climbed with!
Then we started climbing the ridge. It was so much fun! But also a little bit scary because it was a lot of snow and ice on the ridge. A few days earlier it was dry but Peter called it “winter conditions” now. So sometimes when you wanted to hold on to something your hand slipped because of the thin layer of ice on the rock.
The climb was perfect level for me. Grade AD/AD+ or III-IV but with the conditions it was a little bit harder maybe.
It was pretty exposed but I felt safe with Peter and the poor visibility made you not see so much of it anyway…
This crux was what I found the hardest part of the climb. I stand on only my front of the crampons on like…Nothing! And it might not show so good in the photo but the exposure is pretty good here.
Last part up to the top!
And the summit selfie! Even if conditions were harder then when the ridge is dry we made it up in less then 4 hours. I was really proud over that, Peter said it was really good! This was maybe one of the best climbs in this project. I had so much fun and was just the right amount of scared haha. Then we took the normal route down and had a fish soup in a hut before I left Peter back at Studlgrat and went down to Lucknerhaus and then to the camping. And our plans to go to the Balkan had to wait because I wanted to take care of this weather window and climb Monte Rosa Dufourspitze the next days. So I had been trying to book a guide for that during my time on Grossglockner but not found anyone who was not already booked. So that became a really exciting climb but I will save that story for another post!