Climbing Mount Khalatsa 3938 m was a special thing. First of all I had to get permit to climb it and that took like 60 days. Then when we got to the border the border guards had not seen tourists in the area for a year. Me and Alex (my guide) were the first tourists in a year!
Mount Khalatsa is a mountain that have not been climbed too many times so there was almost no information about it online at all. We just had to go there and see.
We arrived in the afternoon and parked our car (that also was our basecamp) by a little house that seem abandoned. The next morning we started the climb around 4am!
First part was trekking through bushes and then on the snowfield. You had top watch up for some rockfall and be careful when you walked along the face of the mountain tho.
This was our route!
Seen from the other side, the ridge up to the summit.
We had amazing weather and the conditions were good so we made 600 altitude meters the first hour.
Then we started the scrambling up on the rocks and… It was the worst rock ever! Just fell apart under your feet and it you touched it you had it in your hands. Even my guide said it was horrible.
After the scrambling there were steep climbing up to 60 degrees. We solo climbed it with just one regular ice ax and were not attached to a rope or used any protection. Because we didn´t bring any. It was suppose to a be a easy trekking peak, nothing technical according to the research but it was not. I was never scared, I felt like I got this and climbed on.
Then we got up on the summit ridge and from here it was just ten more minutes to the top!
Alex walking the last part.
On the summit!!
Alex summit pose…
Then we climbed down again. The downclimb at the steep part took a while, a rappel would have been faster but the snow was too soft (and again we did not have a rope with us). Even if I had gaiters on my boots I had like a swimming pool of water inside them when I was back down because there was so much snow.
When we got back down there was two military guys waiting for us by the car, excited to hear everything about our climb. They had been waiting all day for us (in case something would happen and we needed help).
It was a nice mountain to climb, a cool experience to go somewhere to climb where not many people have been before.