When I wanted to climb this mountain I reached out to guides in Azerbaijan but no one could climb it with me because of political situations. So my option was to climb it from Russian side. That´s not too common.
Me and my guide Alex arrived in the afternoon to this small village where the border police checked our permits.
Then we continued to the base of Mt Bazarduzu where we set up our basecamp at 2200 m altitude. We spent one night here and then we started the climb the day after.
Our goal for the day was to climb about 1300 altitude meters up where the snow started. We were going for the NE ridge since Summitpost said that was the normal route from Russian side. Spoiler: It is not!!
After setting up our tent weather became worse and soon we were stuck in a thunderstorm that was really bad. I have never experienced thunder and lightning so close and strong before. It was really scary.
There was some snow also but not too bad.
The day after we started climbing to the summit. We were a little bit worried about access because the NE ridge looked, from where we were, very steep and technical. Not like PD maximum 25 degrees that SP said…
And a few hundred altitude meters from camp we got to this: A 60-80 degrees steep technical wall with avalanche risk after the snow last night. We could not really see it good enough from the camp but when we got here it was clear: We could not continue. And there was no way to traverse either. We had only one option: Go down and try another route.
We packed up our camp and went back to basecamp again where we spent a rest day due to bad weather.
Then we tried to climb the 4466 m high Mt Bazarduzu again. This time via west ridge. There was a river crossing, a really sketchy traverse down in the canyon and scree up to where we put our high camp.
A really beautiful sunset.
Just after out camp was another scary part: This couloir that was about 40 degrees steep had avalanched everywhere and avalanched all the time. So we climbed it early in the morning. I remember thinking “please don´t avalanche” when we traversed the parts of snow that still waited to go down the mountain. Really scary!
When we got up on the ridge there was just a long long way on the snow to the top. Sun was starting to get up, warming my cold hands.
It was an amazing day!
Summit of Mt Bazarduzu!
And of course Alex summit pose…
After spending some time on the summit because of the nice weather we started the descent and around 15 pm we were back at basecamp byt the car again.
Climbing this mountain was an amazing experience even if the first route we tried didn´t work out.